Inebolu

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A low-key fishing town, Inebolu (pop. 1000) serves as a useful coastal connection along the beautiful but poorly served Amasra-Sinop road. The town is popular with Turkish tourists and hotels can fill up in summer, especially on weekends. The trip here from any direction involves spectacular scenery, but the town itself is unexciting; it has little to offer except a rocky beach, some fish restaurants, and a glimpse at a sleepy Turkish resort.

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TRANSPORTATION

Metro (81149 60) and Kastamonu Özlem (81139 30) run buses from the otogar to: Ankara (6hr., 8 per day 5am-8pm, $9.50); Bursa (8hr.; 6:15, 6:30pm; $14); İstanbul (9hr., 5 per day 9am-8pm, $15); İzmir (13hr., 6:30pm, $27); Kastamonu (1hr., 4 per day 8am-9:30pm, $2). Minibuses leave the otogar for: Abana (every 30min. 9am-7pm; $1.50, students $1.25); Kastamonu (1hr., 12 per day 6:30am-6pm, $1.50); Sinop (3hr.; 2:45, 4:45pm; $6.50, students $5.50). Minibuses also stop at the Petrol Ofisi on the coastal road to drop passengers near the hotels.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The coastal road is known as Zafer Yolu to the east of the river and as İsmetpaşa Cad. to the west. Most hotels are west of the bridge turn left when facing the coast. Cumhuriyet Cad., the main commercial road, runs inland from the PTT past many shops and a mosque.

There’s an unhelpful tourist office in a wooden hut on the coastal road, 200m east of the river. (Open June-Sept. daily 11am-7pm.) Banks, including an Akbank (open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-6pm) with an ATM and currency exchange, line Cumhuriyet Cad. Other services include: pharmacies on Cumhuriyet Cad; the hospital (811 31 94); internet at Internet Cafe, Boyran Mah., 71/B Şarmin Apt., on the left, past Sahil Pansiyon (811 57 50.;$1 per hr.); and the PIT, on the coastal road. (Open daüy 8am-11pm; airmail M-F 8:30am-5:30pm.)

Postal code: 37500

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Inebolu Yakamoz Tatil Köyü 0, Bayram Mah., İsmet Paşa Cad., 500m west of the town center, has newly renovated motel rooms or small bungalow triples with wooden interiors, bunk beds, and a fridge and kitchen facilities. Call ahead in summer. (811 43 05. Motel room $15; triples $13.) Closest to town, Sahil Pansiyon , 63 îsmetpaşa Cad., about 400m west of the bridge and up a flight of stairs, offers family-style living in a quiet location. Tire six clean rooms have common kitchen and Turkish toilet; top-floor rooms have a splendid sea view. (811 43 98. $4.25 per person.) More accommodations lie along the beach. The Huzur Motel , 8 Îsmetpaşa Cad., across from Sahil, has 16 beachside rooms, some with Western toilets, (fax 811 46 52. Doubles $11; triples $13.50.)

FOOD

 Inebolu is renowned for its fresh fish. The best establishment in town, the Gazi Denizcilik Restaurant , on îsmetpaşa Cad., a few hundred meters along the coast toward the hotels, serves a wide variety of fish (kalkan $6.50; barbun $5) and pide ($2.50) on its seaside terrace with excellent views. (1146 88. Open Apr.-Nov. daily 8am-2am.) Also excellent, the Şehir Restaurant , on the second floor of the building next to the PTT, has the same owners, menu, and prices, but is open year-round. Try the Palamut fish ($3) or rakı ($1.25) on the rooftop terrace. (811 40 72. Open daily 6am-2am.)

ABANA

Abana (pop. 3000) is a fast-growing beach resort that has managed to retain an intimate feel. There are plenty of çay houses and some pebble beaches, but little other entertainment. Abana is also a major base for campers along the Black Sea Coast it has one of the only campsites around. Those arriving at the end of July can enjoy the annual Abana Culture and Art Festival (564 10 08), featuring concerts, art exhibitions, and sports tournaments.

TRANSPORTATION

There is no otogar, so all buses stop near the bus company offices in the square. Buy bus tickets either from Kastamonu Özlem (»564 24 24) or Soner Turizm (»564 20 20) for: Ankara (7hr., 8:45pm, $11); İstanbul (10hr.; 2 buses each at 8:30am and 6:30pm; $16, students $13.50); Kastamonu (1hr.; 6:30pm; $3, students $2.50); Safranbolu (6hr.; 5am; $11, students $9.50); Samsun (6hr.; 5am; $11, students $9.50); Zonguldak (7hr.; Th and Su 9:30am; $11, students $9.50). Mini buses service to Inebolu (30min.; 8ain, 12:30, 2:30pm, then depends on demand; $1.25, students $1) and Sinop (2’/¿hr.; 5, 9:15am, 5pm; $5.50, students $4).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Hilmi Uran Cad., the town’s main street, extends east from the central square, Cumhuriyet Alanı, inland, parallel to the sea. The nightlife is concentrated between the square and the coast. Services include: a tourist office in a small booth on the square (open June-Sept. daily 8am-midnight); a TC Ziraat Bankası with an ATM on Hilmi Uran Cad. (open M- F 8am-noon and 1:30-5:30pm); the hospital (564 11 25); Internet access at Beyaz Saray (White House) Internet Cafe, Merkez Mah., Cumhuriyet Alanı, just off the main square, facing the sea (open 9:30am-lam; $1.25 per hr.); and the PTT, next to the Ziraat bank on Hilmi Uran Cad., 130m from the square. (Open M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.) Postal Code: 37970.

ACCOMMODATIONS

 Otel Bora , Tahsin Coşkun Cad., directly in Cumhuriyet Alanı. Definitely the best value and the budget choice. Clean rooms, many with balconies overlooking the square, and shared toilets. (564 12 60. $6 per person; discount available.) From the square, follow the signs 200m west along the coastal road to Sahil Pansiyon , 23 Sahil Cad., a hospitable, family-run place on the seaside with seven quad rooms, four baths, a kitchen, and sea views. (564 15 41. More suited to groups or families. $5 per person.) Next door to the Sahil Pansiyon is Ümit Pansiyon . 24 Sahil Cad. Six rooms, all with bath, are of better quality than Sahil’s, but they cost more. (564 11 07. $8 per person.) Along the coastal road east of the square is a cluster of bungalow villages. Doğan Güneş Camp Cafe , (10km east of the town center, is a seaside campsite with a cafe, cold water showers, and toilets. (564 30 82. Open June-Sept. $4 per tent.)

FOOD AND ENTERTAINMENT

Abana’s food is rather unspectacular. The Köseoğlu Restaurant , 1 Merkez Mah., in the center of town, has decent fish (kalkan $6; Çiniköp $4.50) with rakı for $1.25 and revani dessert for $.70. (564 11 74. Open daily 6am-lam.) A few doors down is Ümit Ocakbaşı , 10 Hilmi Uran Cad., which serves kıyınalı pide for $1.50 and pizza for $3. (564 24 29. Open daily 8am-2am; winter daily 8:30am-9pm.) Beyaz Saray Restaurant , Merkez Mah., Kamil Demircioğlu Cad., just off the main square by the sea, has great views, but is perhaps better for an evening drink since the menu is somewhat limited, with mezgit fish for $2 and izgara köfte for $2. (564 28 40. Open daily noon-2am.)

As for entertainment,, the town’s three main activities are swimming at the beach, sipping tea at the beach, and climbing the nearby hills to look out over the beach. After a day at the beach, head along the coastal road past the campsites to the cluster of bars and çay gardens, which sometimes offer live Turkish pop. Bism Ev, Cumhuriyet Meydan, just off the square, has a large outside seating area, nice decor, and good çay. (Open daily 8:30am-lam.)

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