Unye

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Unye has a rare combination of good beaches, good hotels, campsites, and nearby hiking options. Only 95km east of Samsun, it’s easily accessible along the main coastal road from Samsun to Trabzon. Though Unye’s history is thought to extend back to 1270 BC, today it functions mainly as a family-oriented resort town.

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TRANSPORTATION

The otogar, 1km east of the town center, offers a regular dolmuş connection, but buses generally stop at their offices downtown. Ulusoy (323 6147), Metro (323 57 74), and Eray (324 61 57) run buses to: Amasya (4hr.; 5:30, 7, 8pm; $8); Ankara (91, 5 per day 9am-10:30pm, $12); Antalya (161m; 3:30, 4, 9:30pm; $24); Bursa (13hr., 6 per day 4-9pm, $21); Çanakkale (22hr.; 4:30, 6pm; $27); Eskişehir (101m; 6, 9pm; $16); İstanbul (12hr., 9 per day 11am-11pm, $21); İzmir (18hr, 8:30pm, $18); Kayseri (8hr.; 5, 9pm; $14); Malatya (10hr., 7pin, $18); Mersin (16hr; 4, 8pm; $14); Sinop (4hr., 3:30pm); Sivas (7hr., 7pm, $11); Trabzon (5hr., 5:30pm, $6); Tokat (6hr., 7pm, $9.50). Student discounts are usually available.

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The center of town is Cumhuriyet Meydanı, a small square along the coast marked by an Atatürk monument.. The tourist office, 7 Unye Spor Lokali Halı Saha Yanı, is about 500m east of the town center, on the coastal road. The director of tourism is helpful and friendly. (323 49 52. Open daily M-Sa 8am-6pm; in winter 8am-noon and 1:30- 5:30pm.) There’s a Türkiye İş Bankası with an ATM on the coastal road, just east of the main square. (Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm.) You can reach the hospital at (323 98 53). Internet access is available at Inter Point Internet Cafe, Hükümet Cad., Cezmi Sidcr İshanı. (323 22 33. $.80 per hr. Open daily 9am-midnight.) Also try Millennium Net Cafe, 21/4 Belediye Cad., Hannadar işharu, 3rd fl. (323 99 53. $1 per hr. Open daily 10am-11pm.) To reach the PTT, on Belediye Cad., from the tourist office, cross the street and turn right at the dolmuş stop. (Mail services daily 8am-5:30pm. Telephone services until midnight.)

Postal code: 52300.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Otel Güney O, 14 Belediye Cad., in the heart of Cumhuriyet Meydanı, sports a terrace and cafe area with view of the sea at the top to go with 22 clean, comfortable rooms, 14 with bath. (»323 84 06. Singles with phone $6, with bath, TV, and phone $7; doubles $8, with bath $10; triples $15.) Just outside Cumhuriyet Meydanı, Otel Burak , 4 Belediye Cad., offers 14 simple rooms with bath. (324 52 16. Singles $6; doubles $10; triples $12.10% student discount.) The cheapest joint in town is the Otel Çınar , 22 Hükümet Cad., down a side street behind the Findikkale bus office in the center of town. The 14 rooms all come with bath. (324 85 48. Singles $4.50, students $4; doubles $8, students $6.)

Even better, take a dolmuş heading west along the coastal road to one of the cheap pensions or beachside campsites that offer Unye’s mellow brand of coastal living. About 1km from the towm center, the first place the dolmuş passes is the Belediye Çamlık Moteli , which tempts travelers with 13 large, villa-like rooms with bath, a sea view, and a cool, pine tree setting, (323 10 85 or 323 13 33. Doubles $12; quads with kitchen $20.) Another 1km farther west are Gülen Camping (324 73 68), and next door the bigger, better equipped Uzunkum Camping , 62 Atatürk Mah. Uzunkum features showers, toilets, hot water, electricity’, a large private beach, and a restaurant, (a 323 20 22. Small tents $5, includes water, electricity, and showers; large tents $6.50; caravan $8. Trout $3; meze on request $1.50.)

FOOD

Sample the magnificent fish dishes at the Park Restaurant , 6 Devlet Sahil Yolu Üzeri, on the waterfront opposite the town square. Try Black Sea fish: kalkan ($6) or levrek ($6). Reservations are a good idea in summer. ( 323 30 53. Open daily 11am-lam.) Adjacent to the Çamlık Hotel, the Çamlık Restaurant O, 1km west of town, occupies a lovely tree-lined spot overlooking the sea. (323 11 75. Trout $3. Beer $1.25.) Çakirtepe Restaurant  is about 1km along the coastal road from the center of Ordu toward Uzunkum, and has a good range of fish and meat dishes. (Open daily noon-llpm.)

SIGHTS

Unye’s most important sight is the Unye Kalesi, a Byzantine castle about 5km south of town. From the tourist office, head 300m inland along Niksar Cad. to the dolmuş hub, and ask the drivers about the kale. Dolmuş drop you off 2km downhill from the castle (8am-9pm, $.30). Another option is to take a taxi straight to the castle ($6.50). The road leads to the base of the castle, where you’ll see a Pontic tomb carved into the rock and have an impressive view of the surrounding green hills. A steep and narrow path leads to the top; unfortunately, it is lined with stinging, unfriendly plants and is slippery when wet. Unye’s best beach is aptly named Uzun Kum (“long sand”), stretching for over a kilometer, about 4km west of the town center (dolmuş $.30).

If cleanliness is next to godliness, you can’t go wrong with Unye’s hamam, once a 700-year-old Byzantine church. The church itself isn’t much to look at, but who opens their eyes during an exfoliating massage? (8 Hükümet Cad. Open for men daily 4am-noon, for women noon-5pm. Tourists can bathe in mixed groups; ask at the tourist office. Hamam $2.50; kese $1.50.)

Boat tours leave from the dock in the center of town. Tickets are available at Şahmer Turizm. ( 634 50 54 or 324 22 09; 30min., in summer every 30min. 8-11pm, $1.50.) The Asarkaya National Park, 6km southeast of Unye, has good picnic facilities and hiking trails in the woods overlooking the sea. Take a dolmuş from the hub opposite the tourist office ($.40, 7am-7pm). On the way from Asarkaya National Park are some rock tombs. The director of tourism may offer you a tour; otherwise, walk 4km past the tourist, office and ask for Tozkoparan Kayamezar.

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